Leaving Mandal and reaching Lysefjord

We finally ‘escaped’ from Mandal on the 24th June. It had been almost a week since we had arrived and were literally stopped in our tracks by NW gales. The wind was supposed to come from the NE and veer to the E and SW, before returning to what seems to be its default direction (NW).

Confused waves around Lindesness

We left very early and decided to clear the two headlands Lindesnes and Lista and to continue all the way to Tananger (58º 56’N 05º 34’.6E) to the west of Stavanger, some 100M NW from Mandal. We expected to arrive at around 02:00 on the 25th.

As expected the wind was a gentle breeze from the E. It was a gorgeous day and you wondered why it was that the strong wind always seemed to come from ‘the wrong direction’. There was hardly enough wind to take us past Lindesnes and Lista. What’s more: the waves around around that stretch of coast (some 40M) were very confused and choppy. Even with a gentle breeze, the waves seemed to spill the wind out of our sails all the time… We had to help with the engine to make enough headway. Luckily there was the expected westerly current and it did help a bit as well.

We were just past Lista lighthouse when dark thundery clouds started to gather. We heard deep rumbling of thunder in the distance. We thought that it would miss us, but not very long after that the squall reached us. The wind suddenly increased to 5-6 Bft from the NE. Just the kind of wind that Easy Rider loves (and a good direction too!). With one reef in the main and the Yankee, Easy Rider was very well balanced and we very happy too. But just for half an hour…

Look out for the rain..

As suddenly as the wind came, it just stopped as if someone had turned off the switch. From 6.5 kn our speed fell to 2,5 in just a few seconds! And guess what? The wind direction changed as well and was coming right ‘on the nose’ (NW) again.

From then on it was a slog. But we made it to Tananger by 3:00 am.

It was so interesting to experience night sailing again. Here in these latitudes, the sun still goes down behind the horizon, but the sky remains red until day break. 

Later, when you approach the the coast, there are all the lighthouses that you have to identify and the sector lights to follow. It was certainly a challenge approaching Tananger because it is an industrial and  petrochemical port. The whole horizon was full of lights from the plants. It was very difficult to make out the lighthouses. It was a thrilling experience. When we finally made it into the harbour the water was completely still like a mirror and that was utterly disorientating and confusing in darkness.

'Sleepy' Tanager

Moored against the stone jetty

Tananger is a very quiet suburb of Stavanger. It is a bit ‘sleepy’, but on the other hand it is very sheltered and quiet, not like Stavanger which we visited by bus (only 20 min ride). It is a lovely city but the guest marinas in the city centre and a bit further along at the Oil Museum all seem to be exposed to the N, hence the swell and they are very noisy.

We have now arrived in the fjords! It is a complete change of scenery. Suddenly the coastline becomes mountainous  and bleak.

From Tananger (26.6.2014) we made for the famous Lysefjorden, the entrance of which is about 7M SE of Stavanger. It is the most stunning fjord landscape imaginable stretching 20M into the distance! High rocky mountains, some as high as 1,000m plummeting perpendicularly into the fjord, also 400m deep. You can go right to the edge of the water and even touch the rocks or moor alongside the cliffs because the water is so deep. On a calm day it has a surreal dreamlike feel to it.

Majestic scenery of Lysefjord

Famous Pulpit Rock in Lysefjord

We went along, looking for the famous Pulpit Rock, which is a perpendicular rock face 1,000m high. We went on and on and then there it was, almost at the end of the fjord. A waterfall, one of many along the way, was falling from the top where patches of snow were still melting.

Quiet anchorage after the Lysefjord

We were so happy to have seen it and to have been all the way to the end, although it meant a 40M in and out of the fjord. There are no sheltered anchorages along the way, and we had to find somewhere to anchor for the night. Stephan found the most sheltered and beautiful lagoon to anchor at Ådnøyvågen (58º 55’.1N 05º 59’.8E) just opposite the entrance to the Lysefjord. 

Now we have to start making our way towards Bergen. We will probably stay in the inner lead between the islands at least as long as the NW-lies continue. We are still under the influence of the very strong high pressure area stretching from the British Isles to Scandinavia. It all might change at the end of next week… when we arrive at Bergen? Bergen is statistically the wettest city in Norway. Let’s see…

We are now in Haugesund (59º 24’.8N 05º 15’.9E), moored against black tyres along the town quay in between an armada of motorboat weekenders. It was a very noisy Friday (27.6) night, all the restaurants and bars were open until 02.00, but we still had a good sleep after all…

Haugesund town quai 27th of June