Caught between passage making and exploring.

19.7.2017 Wednesday

We had considered the idea of sailing as far as Mahón (Menorca) and leaving Easy Rider there over the winter to have some time to ‘potter around’ in the Balearics. Enquiring about feasibility and prices in Mahón, we were staggered at the amount we would have to pay for 9 months overwintering compared with the UK or Scandinavia. When comparing prices, the marina in Alghero on the north-east coast of Sardinia would be almost €6,000 cheaper! This quickly made us decide to book Alghero for the winter and to continue our journey towards our original destination.

motor boats in Cala d'Or

We had to wait four days in Marina Cala d’Or for the northeasterly wind to ease. I must say that after a day or so we felt that we had seen enough, and felt the urge to leave. There is not much to do in these holiday resorts apart from promenading on the quay watching hundreds of big motor yachts, some illuminated with blue neon lights and moored stern to so that you can observe life in the “fast lane”. We overheard a German mother telling her children: “lass uns mal Reichtum begucken” (let’s go and watch some affluence)! 

There were three small lovely coves where hundreds of people were trying to find a small patch in the sun. The best time to venture out was in the evening, when the oppressing heat was easing.

lovely beaches in Cala d'Or early morning

Even if the easterly wind was light, when we finally left Cala d’Or heading for Mahón on the east side of Menorca, our progress became very slow. As the sea breeze picked up around lunchtime it became clear that unless we changed our destination it would be a long and arduous slog (70NM).

Ciudadela (39º 59’.6N 03º 49’.6E), on the west coast of Menorca was not only closer,but also the ancient capital of the island with history stretching back to neolithic times. It didn’t take long to decide to bear off and head north instead.

We had a great sail after all (the wind had picked up to E F5-6 and didn’t ease until sunset).

just entered our 'port of refuge'

The ‘rude awakening’ came when we arrived at the entrance of Ciudadela and requested a mooring on Ch9. We were told that there were no moorings available and would not be available until the 30th of July! Fortunately there was an anchorage just outside the harbour where all the ‘overspill’ boats anchored. It turned out to be very pleasant after all.

What we discovered is that you have to book your moorings on line in this part of the Mediterranean. That is something that I can’t get my head around! How can you know days in advance where you will be on such and such day? What if there is a gale? What if the wind direction doesn’t allow you to get there? Even some moorings in popular anchorages have to be booked in advance. I feel that the internet is encroaching into what used to be one of the few areas of activity where you still had a sense of freedom.

Stephan who was really frustrated by the whole experience decided to try and book a mooring space “somewhere, anywhere!” for the following day. Fortunately we were close enough to the shore to have an internet connection. Cala de Addaya (40º 00’.4N 04º 12’E) looked on the chart like a long deep inlet, protected from all winds by several islets at its entrance. And surprise, surprise, it could be booked trough a booking agent requesting our credit and personal details, including our date of birth.

Harbour of Addaya seen from the hill

When we left next morning we didn’t have any booking confirmation… Somewhere some 5NM off the coast, north of Menorca, Stephan’s mobile phone rang. When he looked, the call was coming from Rumania. We thought that it must be a nuisance call and almost didn’t reply. But when Stephan did, it was the booking agent confirming the booking. How are you supposed to be connected and available all the time?! I suppose that these days many super yachts and motor yachts have 4G internet connection on board all the time. The on-line booking agents obviously can’t tell whether it is a motor boat or a sailing vessel and would not care anyway.

Now we are in Puerto Deportivo de Addaya, a very friendly and gorgeous small marina in surroundings that are reminiscent of remote places in Finland or Norway: wild and rocky, but sunny and warm.

We have put aside our misgivings about the reservation demands and are enjoying our last days on Menorca!

Next stop will be Alghero (40º 34’.0N 08º 18’.3E)in Sardinia, 177NM - on a course of 77º.