From Beth, our Guest Blogger on Easy Rider...

2nd of June

Apparently it’s the job of the guest to write the blog. Certainly Madeleine, Captain and Navigator, and Stephan, Foredeck Gorilla, 1st Officer, Chief Technician and Handyman seem to work very hard, so I, who have generally been rather indolent, have to accept the task in hand.

I arrived on board Easy Rider at Henan (58º 14.3’N 11º 40.5E) on the Island of Orust, off the eastern coast of Sweden, on Monday 2nd June. She had lain here for the winter and Madeleine and Stephan had been aboard for the past week preparing for their  6th Summer cruising in Northern Scandinavia.The plan for the next week, whilst I am on board, is to sail North through the extensive archipelago of small islands and rocks to Oslo, where I will catch a plane home. 

The weather was hot and sunny, so as soon as I was aboard, at about 1730 hours, we put out to sea. We pottered across the calm sea under engine, ticking off light houses, markers, avoiding the numerous rocks to a small cove, where we anchored for the night. The sun went behind the trees at about 2200 hours, so we were able to sit in the cockpit and enjoy the peace and quiet, and watch the occasional small fishing boat chugging  past. It hardly gets dark at this time of year, so masks to sleep in are essential. 

amongst the numerous rocks

3rd of June

The following morning we slipped away to the North, with just about enough wind to raise the genoa.The sun was still shining and it was heaven, though rather alarming when we sailed through  narrow passages between scary looking rocks. Madeleine checks the chart constantly, looking for markers in the sea or on the rocks to keep us clear of dangers. Stephan corroborates our position by watching the chart plotter, now displayed on the ubiquitous iPad which he has rigged up under the hood. Their team work is at all times impressive. I feel rather redundant in the business of the boat, but happy to be so. A line of cormorants sits on the ridge of a rock, energetically stretching and drying their wings, huge gulls soar in the sky and swoop on unsuspecting fish, a few geese wing past us in the sky, and that evening a seal lolls in the shallow water of the harbour at Smögen (58º 21’N 11º 13’E) where we tie up. Here the small town lies between pinkish rolling rocks, reminiscent of the Rose Coast in Northern Brittany. It was once a fishing village, and along the edge of the harbour are wooden houses perched precariously on rocks, painted yellow ochre, blue, faded vermillion. It looks as if most of them are now holiday homes. They were still boarded up when we were there, as

which girl are they trying to impress?

the holidays don’t start till after midsummer day, June 21st. So all the tantalising little shops and galleries were also closed. We went for a walk over the rocks where we found little wooden bridges and walkways, views to the sea all round, and local boys tombstoning off high boards into a pool between the rocks. It was lovely. We found the only place open and had some rather strange cocktails, followed by fish and chips.

4th of June

On Wednesday we mostly motored to Kostersundet (58º 53.7’N 11º 00.9’E), our first port in Norway. We tied up next to a German boat and were the only visitors. We ate in the only open restaurant/shop/community centre in the village. There were hundreds of tin frogs and pixies and birds, rusty and for sale. There was a rather glum looking group of Yummy Mummies, the babies so wrapped up that we couldn’t see them. The rain was soon hammering down and we found ourselves sitting in the middle of a film set. We weren’t sure if it was a pre nuptial for the wedding film of the young couple starring in the film (also rather glum!) or an advert for the restaurant. It was in any case rather lack lustre but we enjoyed the experience. The langoustines were delicious!

6th of June

Yesterday it rained all day. So it was full wet gear. Our mission was to find this small anchorage called Papperhavn (59º 06.3’N 10º 50.4’E) on the island of Vesterøy. There are no notes or plans in the pilot book, and the chart shows a rock strewn sea. However opening up the image on the

sunset at Papperhavn

iPad made it look less scary, and indeed it wasn’t that difficult. Nevertheless I am amazed at Madeleine and Stephan’s courage on this epic voyage.  The wind finally reached about Force 3 (Beaufort scale) and we were able to sail at least part of the way. After a heavy downpour on arrival the skies cleared and we found ourselves in an absolutely beautiful little natural harbour with about 10 houses perched on the rocks. There seemed to be no-one here, but during the evening I spotted two people having a swim, and a couple of small boats went out to fish among the rocks. The light was incredible, and the piles of clouds above and around were reflected in the water, which was also an intense deep blue from the sky where it appeared between the clouds. During another downpour I taught Madeleine and Stephan how to play Racing Demons, and Madeleine soon showed her highly competitive side. The sky cleared again and we ate a delicious supper (Captain, Navigator and Cook!) on deck.  The only tragedy is that as I was heating the water for my hot water bottle the gas ran out and we discovered that we have THREE empty gas bottles. So I have been up since 3a.m. and had no tea or coffee. Wah. 

The crew has just got up and are trying to sort some hot water. Failure will mean both a distressed Guest Blogger and a change in direction of our route today, maybe we will have to go direct to Oslo to get gas….

The sun is shining.

Good heavens. They have unearthed a fourth gas bottle. Watch this space.

Saturday 7th June

We are in the Fjord of Oslo and so is the rest of Norway. Possibly because it is Whitsun? 

But for my narrative, we need to start again at Papperhavn. Having found a fourth gas bottle (who travels with four gas bottles?, but hooray, and not complaining) we set off in fine rain. At least I got to wear my new boots. It rained steadily, sometimes heavily, all morning and there was no wind. But as we arrived at Evjesund (59º 21’N 10º 40’E), a wide shallow pool, only 2-3m deep, surrounded by trees and farmland and a few scattered houses, the sun came out and we ate lunch on deck. It was lovely. Stephan and Madeleine went below for a siesta and I passed out in the cockpit. Bliss, but it was short lived. The rain fell again and we hastily put up the cockpit tent and went below to a new round of evermore aggressive Racing Demons, Stephan now newly determined to beat us.  Suddenly there was a loud screeching noise. Stephan’s new gismo - an anchor alarm on his iPhone, was telling us that we were dragging. Hurrying on deck we found that several more boats had arrived - it was Friday evening and the Norwegian weekend had begun. The raising of Norwegian flags announced the occupation of the houses. (Surely the absence of the flags alerts burglars to their vacancy?

white cotton wool mist

I was up early this morning (5a.m.) and a white cotton wool mist rolled across the water, with low early morning sunlight skimming the surface. It was so beautiful. A short while later a loud flapping noise announced the arrival of a flying swan, that landed clumsily on the water near to Easy Rider.

Later, here at Halangspollen.

OMG. There was a terrible interruption. An ear splitting wail from the cook. The 4th gas bottle is empty too……..

No hot water bottle. No tea. No coffee. BUT the supper was just cooked. Phew. And it was good - pork fillet in a tomato sauce with olives and capers, new potatoes. Cordon Bleu. But imagine tomorrow morning…

59º 21,45N 10º 39.65E

So, to continue: back at Evjesund this morning, two male swans amused us with their aerial performance before the female until one, defeated, flew away, to be seen later standing disconsolately on the ‘rock awash’ (59º 21,45N 10º 39.65E), near the entrance to the pool. We left later in glorious sunshine and a light wind from the SW. We hoisted the sails and floated North, into the Oslo Fjord. Suddenly an aggressive roaring from behind announced the arrival and boarding of Norwegian Customs. The Officer demanded how much alcohol we had on board and warned us that if we didn’t tell the truth it would be necessary for him to take us to the Custom House where we would be in Big Trouble, so we’d better tell the truth right away. Stephan counted the bottles and the Officer went below to check, and searched under the bunks, in the sail lockers, in the beds, and under the navigator’s seat and under the boards. Pre warned, we had already opened the bottles of spirits. He suddenly relaxed, and chatted about where we are going and the restaurant areas in Oslo. He left. Oh sing The Paranoia Blues.

And so to Halangspollen (59º 42’N 10º 38’E), sailing gently most of the way. Thunder rolled around us and rain passed by, but never hit us. After a failed attempt to find a place to anchor at Håøya (full up), we came here. Madeleine wanted to anchor at the far end of the lagoon (mad woman, no room to swing a cat let alone a 40’ boat) but we were told in no uncertain terms by a house owning nimby that we would not be able to go there, and we have anchored near to a beautiful rock face, in sunshine and reflections.  Tomorrow we go to Oslo.

Monday 9th June

Beth, our guest blogger

Yesterday with a light wind we sailed up the Oslo Fjord to arrive at the Aker Brygge marina (59º 54,4N 10º 43.5’E) in the city centre. Stephan called up the Harbour Master and a boy on the pontoons directed us to the far corner. The way in was nail bitingly narrow with sharp corners between boats but Madeleine steered Easy Rider with her usual aplomb. We tied up and went immediately for a coffee on the Quay - at last! (Still no gas remember.) The marina is surrounded by stunning new buildings and we discovered that we had arrived in the middle of the Volvo Sailing Race Week, with attendant side shows - local boys diving, remote controlled miniature Volvos, grinding competitions etc. It is avery vibrant and fun area here. Later we wandered through Oslo and had a meal in a restaurant (madly expensive!)

This morning I leave. Enormous thanks to Madeleine and Stephan for a really fantastic week. They are such good friends to me. Thank you thank you!

Beth

Aker Brygge marina, Oslo